By Carolee Anita Boyles,
Contributing Editor

Whether your hunting partner is a retriever, a pointer, a trailing dog, or a feist, there are many ways that a dog can get hurt, or even die, in the field. And sometimes there's not a thing you can do to prevent injury to your canine hunting partner. But with some protective gear and the right first aid kit, you can go a long way toward preventing, or at least minimizing, injuries your dog is prone to in the field.

First is gear that makes the dog clearly visible to hunters-orange vests sized for dogs. Some of them are safety orange with no other embellishments; others have reflective tape applied to them to make the dog even more visible. This kind of visibility vest is useful any time you have a dog in the field on dry land.

Another type of vest provides protection for the chest and belly of the dog. These vests also are usually safety orange, and are meant to give the dog some visibility as well as protection, especially if you have a dog that's recently had a litter of pups.

Then there are vests for waterfowl retrievers. Today's neoprene dog vests serve as insulation from the cold, and offer convenient "handholds" for helping a tired and wet dog into the boat. Some vests offer both floatation and warmth, and others offer only floatation. In the northern parts of the country you'll obviously want a vest that offers both, and be sure you get one that is cut to provide "handles" to help lift the dog into the boat. Some vests have a heavy "skid plate" in the chest area of the dog for protection.

The key to a good vest for a waterfowl dog is warmth, particular when you get into the middle of winter. Dogs can get hypothermia, and it's hard to tell when a dog is really cold, because some of them shiver with excitement.

When it comes to waterfowl hunting, some of the most basic protective gear is a piece of wood and a couple of wool blankets, particularly if you hunt from an aluminum boat that conducts cold. Build a wooden box for the dog to keep him off the aluminum, put a wool blanket on the box for him to sit on, and after he shakes off and gets up on the blanket, throw another blanket over him until it's time for him to go out again.

Depending on where you're hunting, you might want to consider "boots" for your dog. In the middle of the winter snow can be a problem for dogs, particularly bigger footed dogs. They may get big ice balls between their toes, and their feet crack and start to bleed.

Another place you might want to consider boots is in dry or rocky areas where there are a lot of sandspurs and other thorny or prickly vegetation. Sand burrs won't ruin your hunt, but they're going to make it mighty unpleasant for the dog.

First aid kits for humans and first aid kits for dogs are similar. The biggest difference is that a first aid kit for dogs never contains Tylenol, Ibuprofen, or aspirin. Never give your dog any of these compounds.

Other than that, most of the components in a dog's first aid kit are the same as those in a person's first aid kit. One thing to look for in a dog's first aid kit is a card with some basic first aid instructions for dogs on it. It should cover field first aid for the things you run into most often: gunshot wounds, snakebites, or a tangle with barbed wire.

Another issue with dogs in the field is not letting them get dehydrated. Many of them want to keep going and they're reluctant to stop and drink. One solution is a product called Rehydrate, developed by a veterinarian at the University of Minnesota. It has a beefy flavor that dogs love, and comes in tablets that dissolve when dropped into clean water, so you don't have to carry a separate supply of liquid for your dog.

We've already covered one "never do": never give your hunting buddy human analgesics. But there are some other "never dos" that are important.

First of all, if your dog is injured, don't try to move him without muzzling him. Even the most loving, even tempered dog can snap or bite when in pain. It's nothing personal; he still loves you. It's just a basic "dog" reflex that can make a bad situation worse.

Another "never do": don't try to substitute your expertise for that of your vet. Depending on where you are and what the situation is, you may have to patch a dog up temporarily the best you can. But if it's more than just a thorn or a scratch, get your dog to a vet as quickly as you can as soon as you're able.

There are two resources you may want to include in your First Aid kit. One is a field first aid book called Dog First Aid: A Field Guide to Emergency Care for the Outdoor Dog, which was written by veterinarian Dr. Randy Acker.

The other is a booklet from the American Safety & Health Institute (ASHI) called Pet First Aid. Although this is not the best written document ever assembled, it does contain information on moving injured animals and on pet CPR.

In addition, ASHI is beginning to offer courses on pet first aid and CPR in many communities. Contact them at 800-246-5101 for more information.